Got a nice gooey mess leaking out my passenger side swivel hub and I'm well overdue for a rebuild, no more putting it off.
I also have some bad scoring on that disk rotor, since you have to remove the wheel bearing hub to get the rotor off anyway I'm going to combine these two jobs and put new rotors on and use 105 series pads.



Here's the kit, new rotors and pads, a torque wrench and hub socket, bearing and CV grease.
The kit is from Terrain Tamer and uses Koyo bearings (Same as OEM).



Undo the two main caliper bolts and remove the caliper, no wonder the disk was scored... oops.



Remove the free wheel selector dial (Part time model).
Hmmm diff oil has made it all the way into the free wheeling hub
Using a good set of circlip pliers remove the axle circlip.
Straighten out the locking ring tab and undo the outer wheel bearing nut, take out the locking ring and undo the inner nut.



Now we need to get the free wheeling hub body off (drive plate on full time model), there are cone washers under the nuts which need to be poped out before it will come off. The correct way is to hit the stud with a brass drift, I don't have one so I just undo the nuts until they are flush with the stud and carefully tap the nut/stud square on until the cone washer pops, only took 1 or 2 sharp whacks. Leaving the nuts on also stops the cone washers flying off into the never never.

Give the free wheeling hub a tap with a rubber mallet and it'll come right off.



The rotor and bearing hub are bolted together so just pull them off as one unit. Be careful the outer main bearing and washer may fall out at this point.
The inner main bearing is held in by the seal you see there.



Undo the bolts holding the spindle and brake shield on, have a container under it to catch anything that spews out like this soupy mess.



Feel around the outer edge of the CV and you'll find it has two flat edges, spin it around so they line up top and bottom and pull the axle out.
Start cleaning everything up, a crap load of paper towel rolls comes in handy.



Now it's time to take the swivel hub housing off, undo the 6 bolts at the back of it holding the felt wiper and seal on.
Undo the two bolts on the top bearing cover and pull the cover up, it has an armature that goes into the top bearing.
Same with the four bolt on the bottom but this also has the steering arms hanging off it, I didn't remove the tie rod ends just dropped the whole assembly down.
There are some big cone washers in the lower bearing cover, use the same method as the others to get them out.



If your replacing the top and bottom bearings knock the races out alternating sides so they come out evenly, you'll notice there are two indents to allow you to get to the edge of the race. (again proper use is with a brass drift).



These bearings have seen better days.



Now clean everything up nicely.

More later when I get time..........

Great write up so far, you're making the job look easy.

why 105 series pads

CV soup, gotta love it:)
I just found this page while doing a bit of google work trying to find bearing numbers from the front end (and they are here amonst others). Anyway this is a list of parts required with toyota part numbers - dont worry about the prices as they are US$

Direct link: http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/front-axle-parts-costs.xls

It is pretty easy, just takes a bit of time.


They are bigger and thicker than the 80 series pads so they last longer which is what I was after, they also stop slightly better since they take up the whole disk surface.

I hate soup

Great info Hillsy. Might be needing this one day.

Do 105 pads fit both early and late discs, or just the late discs?

Just the later disc's (post 92)

Thanks Hillsy!

Just what I was after! Whats next?

knock the new bearing races in, keep each bearing with the race it came with. They should be the same but just in case there is a difference between batches it's better to be safe.
I put them in using a piece of 2x4 and a BFH, keep them as even as possible as they go in, if one edge goes in further than the other knock it back out a bit and try again.

Something I've always done is once I think I've got the race seated fully give it a VERY gentle tap with a hammer all the way around the outer lip, what your doing is listening to the sound it makes. If one edge is not seated fully it makes a very different sound to when it is. You can't miss it, ting V's thunk.

Pull out the old axle seal which is the one you can see in the next pic, a seal puller is best here or pierce the metal ring with a screw driver and pry it out carefully.
There are tools to put seals back in or you can use an appropriately sized piece of timber to do it. Careful not to damage the inner rubber seal and the same as a bearing race they have to go in evenly or it'll jam up and you'll never get it in without damaging it.



The old felt wiper, seal and ring will now slip off the back of the swivel ball, slip the new ones over now, you won't get them on after the swivel hub is back on.
Put the Felt on first, rubber seal (ridge toward felt), retaining ring.



The next steps are so messy I don't have any pics.

Cover the inside of the swivel ball with CV grease and smear a little on the outside of the ball, also put a generous amount of grease on the inside of the swivel hub housing.
Pack the new swivel hub bearings by forcing grease into them with the palm of your hand, place the top and bottom bearings in there races, the grease is usually enough to stop the bottom one falling out for a short time.

Slide the housing over the ball roughly in position.

Now put the lower and upper bearing retainers back in, put the lower knuckle in first as it's the hardest to line up. Get it started checking that the armature is lining up with the center of the bearing, put two nuts on diagonally without the cone washers, do them up a half turn at a time alternating between them. They should do up easily, if one tightens up change to the next, if they both tighten up grab the tie rod ends and give the whole thing a shake back and forth. This should loosen it up again, do this until you have it all the way seated and snug the nuts up.

Line up the outer hub top hole with the center of the top bearing and put that retainer in, it's a close fit but should not be hard to get in. If there were any shims that came off with this retainer make sure they go back on. The shim\s are used to center the housing and set the preload. Put the other two bottom nuts on with there washers, take the first two off and replace with the washers. Torque top and bottom to spec (97Nm).

Now you can do the rear seal, at the back of the housing is a groove that the metal ring sits in, push it in, put the small bolts through the felt retaining ring halves and into the felt which will hold them in place, line up the rubber seal between the bolts and screw the hole lot down.

Clean out and repack the CV, put the axle back in being careful of the axle seal. Put some more grease in the hub around the CV, the hub doesn't need to be completely full.

Smear grease on the inside of the spindle and put it back on with the new gasket. A nice trick is to use a couple of bolts with the heads cut off to line everything up, I use anything that fits though the holes, then fit the brake shield on followed by a new dust seal and get a couple of bolts started to holding it all in place so you can get the rest in.



Note the safety boots


Remove the bearing hub from the old disk rotor, clean up the hub, remove the old seal and repack the bearings with high temp bearing grease, put the inner bearing back in then replace the seal, a big flat piece of wood and a hammer will see it back in ok. (Make sure that inner bearing is back in first though). I reused my old main bearings, they still have plenty of life left.

Attach the hub to the new rotor, put plenty of bearing grease in the cavity between the bearings. Wipe the new rotor over with metho to clean off the thin oil film used to prevent it from rusting. Grease the outside of the spindle and push the hub and rotor back on, it may take a bit of wiggling back and forth to get it to seat in the new dust seal. Use paper towel to hang on to the disk to keep it clean.

Check the manual to show how to correctly set the preload for the bearing nuts, I'll let someone else detail this further as I do it by feel. Once set bend over two tabs on the locking tab, one in on the inner nut and one out for the outer.



Put the free wheel hub or drive plate back on.

Find a bolt that fits the hole in the end of the axle so you can pull it out to expose the groove and get the circlip back on.



Push the caliper pistons back with a G-Clamp, watching the brake fluid level in the reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow. You may need to take some fluid out.

The pistons will have to go all the way fully back in to fit these pads, they went in easily but there's not a lot of room left in there.





The pads dragged a bit the first day but have settled down nicely, with new rotors you will probably get some smoke coming off them as any contaminants burn off the disk, this won't last too long but they will definitely stink pretty bad for a couple of days. This is all normal.

Not a hard job but leave yourself at least a weekend to do this one the first time.

Feel free to add any info or tips you may have.

Just curious, did you notice any better braking with the 100 pads? Or are they just thicker and last longer?

Top write-up Hillsy! I'm just about to to this job and i'm gathering all the info i can before i have a crack at it. Cheers!

pad difference between 80 and 105


as Hillsy said, use a good circlip plier, no problems


invest in a proper oil pump, too easy


job done


tips:
get lots of old newspaper and rags, this is a really filthy job
have all the (correct) parts ready
enlist an apprentice to help clean

Do the 105 series pads just drop in or do you have to do any mods?

105 pads just drop in, no mods, maybe you need to leave the anti rattle plates out.

It is i little bit better, nothing major but I was happy with the stopping anyway.
If you want to see a major difference in stopping go with the slotted rotors like Andre has there in those pics.