A friend of mine has a set of front and rear factory 80 lockers with all wwiring and switches that he has offered to me. Both hm and myself are unsure of how much they are worth so i would like some advice on an appropriate price that would be beneficial for both of us. Does anyone know how they compare to the ARB airlockers?

I can't contribute 'much' to this, but I reckon you'd have to mod the housings as all the factory stuff is externally mounted.

In operation, they provide exactly the same effect as an ARB, so from the seat you couldn't tell which was which.

They may be hard to retro-fit compared to say, an ARB airlocker, as an airlocker only requires one small hole to be drilled in the housing to pass an airline through, all the mods are internal- replace crown wheel from you diff onto the new ARB centre and check backlash.

The factory ones, I think, have a lot more going on outside the housing and I'm not sure how much work you'fd have to do to graft them on to your housings. Prolly more work, but if you can do it and his price is right, you'd be on a winner I reckon. If you have to buy parts, Toyota WILL scorch you I'll bet.

You might want to have a read of this:


http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=192518

Sounds like it's pretty involved !!!!


Cheers,
Alex.

Yep, unless you're getting the diffs I'd suggest you'd need a fair bit of skill, knowledge and tooling.

I guess the question is how much of the factory gear does he have? You need another locking axle for the rear diff from memory (longer spline area than the standard axle). Cant remember what needs to be done for the rear diff, but Im sure there is some clearancing needed.

You can see on slee's website what needs to be done to the front
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz ... ockers.htm

both complete diffs are supplied

Go fo it then, if not sell it to someone here

I need you guys to tell me what is a fair price as neither of us know what it is worth.

An ARB and TJM system for both front and rear new will cost about $3000. I'd suggest a used OEM with diffs would be somewhere between $1500 and $2000.

Personally, I'd be prepared to pay $1500 for it as there is a sh!t load of work to be done to install it.

2.2 cents worth and if your mate is lookig to sell and your no longer interested the $1500 is a firm price from me. I'll even drive to Melbourne to pick it up.

There isn't a huge amount of work to fit these if the diff centers are complete.
Well no more work than fitting up an ARB/TJM that is already fitted to a center.

The genuine toyota lockers would be worth quite a bit more than ARB/TJM aas they are a lot harder to get hold of.
I have seen the 60 series cable opperated locks go for $2500 each before, and at a place i used to work they had a brand spankers toyota front locker for a late 75 series that was worth arount the $2200 mark.

True HDJ80 the OEM ones may be worth more because they are hard to get, but I would only purchase OEM second hand if the price was significantly less than what it would cost me to do new ARB or TJM.

Just as ARB has issues with air leaks the OEM ones have issues with water ingres into the electricals of the diffs.

Agree also that the work involved is probably the same as for ARB or TJM however as these are second hand I'd still be overhauling the diffs just to be sure everything is in good conditions, including adjusting up the rings and pinions clearances.

Hi Guys,

I have a little bit that I can input on these so bare with me for a bit here.

Now I own a set of these so this may be a little biased but I have done quite a bit of research on these well before I owned a set and this is some of the stuff that I have found out from that and now as well as from owning two sets of them.

Don't tell your mate but they should easy go for 3k if they are in ok nic, and that price is usually seen with jus the housings, no looms.

They are a really good locker and in the states (where the ARB is even cheaper than here) they are still the diffs to have, there are a number of reasons for this. The rear axles are ALOT stronger, if you were to have a set of them and standards side by side to compare you would be able to see the difference straight away, they are heat treaded differently and are a lot stronger in general. I have been told that the carrier itself on the lockers was better and contained better materials, this was to cope with a fully locked cruiser from the factory as the standard diffs struggle badly with this if the going gets tough. This doesn't mean however that the "no reverse recoveries" is fixed though, that is a deliberate design and is there is all of the diff models. Also another thing I was told is not only is the rear axle stronger but so is the front CV's. This I am not sure about, but I must say that the yanks I spoke to with them run large tyres and all 4.5p's and the CV's aren't much of an issue, seems for them to only be fellas with like 35+ locked on rock when out crawling that have any issues.

now on to things that I hae found out through ownership, not the net. Their smooth, like really smooth. Their quick too, everyone has been amazed at how quickly they will go in. The water ingress issues relate directly to abuse followed by a lack of maintenance, they have a couple of orings that can go hard and leak water into the housing, and there is a breather intergrated into the loom which is the most common way for it to get in, but like any other breather a simple extension and all is cured. now even if they do leak (nither of mine have, both spotless inside) they are super simple to rebuild, I could do this blindfolded and it is an easy job to pop em off once every 6 months and check em (only need to pop a cover plate to check em too, dead simple)

These are a few points that I think are worth knowing r at least hearing before you decide on these lockers.

-They work underwater, I know, should have been in already but they still do and thats the point , the ARB's or similar (all compressed air types) sort of won't ie in my situation the first time (before I swamped my Sahara) I slid off a causeway and swamped the back of the car nice and deep (stuff was floating on the drawers) My Boss compressor is housed under the drawers and kicked in from shorting out the switch it pumped water now worries, filled the tank with water past 250 PSI till the pressure relief kicked in. Point is had it been and ARB locker it would have pumped both my diffs full of water and detroyed the locker (temp probably, till you get some parts) leaving you with no lockers, and a bogged car still.

-If you really get in the shit (like my poor Sahara when i swamped it) once the fuse blows they stay in, no input needed and they will get you out of the shit even if you are in a bad way. This literally saved my car and possibly my life (and that of my wifes) Also even after going under salt water and killing most electrics in the cruiser, once back on dry lad (a feat only achievable thanks to the lockers staying in) I put in a fresh fuse and they still worked and do to this day, very simple rugged relays.

-You will want to build some nice gaurd for the rear one at least, it has one but its crap and can't take a serious flogging without breaking the plug it is supposed to protect.

-Lets see, factory with factory dash lights, not important but nice all the same.

-Will have to have someone check this but the housings are laminated, I am not sure if the normal ones are or not.

-You should know that with the factory setup you can't lock the front before the rear, but you can fix that

So yeah, I love em, if you got em for say 2 k with loom, switch etc then thats a good buy pending everything being in good nick.

Sorry about the rant but I feel really passionate about these diffs since the Fraser trip, they got me home, they got me to shelter for a night in 140k winds and pushed me through the slop and over /through the trees that had fallen the next morning, I should mention too that in the event of an emergency (with swamped car and blown fuse) even if they are not locked a simple piece of wire across the fuse and engage them and away you go, harder with a blown compressor or impossible if the compressor pumps water)

Sorry about that but I think that people should know, the air systems are not the be all end all, toyota did the right thing the first time (they often do :-0 ) and their out their for us to grab.

Cheers Glenn

I belive you can also manually lock and unlock them with a screwdriver

Ah yes, so I have been told, never have had to though, even in the grimmest of grim situations. Bloody good lockers them.

Cheers Glenn

I have the factory sahara lockers on mine and never had a problem. Mud has a habit of getting in between all the components so you need to put a hose in behind the bash plate to clean it out. I didn't know there was a breather in there. I've extended all the other diff/transfer/gearbox breathers, might have to take off the covers and check out the other breather you mention